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The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) between North and South Korea is one of the most unusual and politically charged tourist destinations in the world. If you are heading to Seoul for a couple of days you are probably wondering if the DMZ is worth visiting. This article dives into our personal experience of the DMZ tour, whether the trip offers valuable insights or if it’s simply a tourist checkbox more than an experience. We’ll weigh the pros and cons, share what you can expect as well as our experience, and ultimately help you decide if this day trip is right for you.
In this article:
What is the DMZ?
The DMZ was established in 1953 at the end of the Korean War as a buffer zone between North and South Korea, dividing the peninsula along the 38th parallel. Stretching 250 kilometers long and 4 kilometers wide, it remains one of the most heavily fortified borders in the world. Despite its name, the DMZ is not entirely free of military presence, and the area is a strong reminder of the ongoing tensions between the two nations.
What to Expect on a DMZ Tour
A typical DMZ tour includes several key stops that offer a mix of historical significance and reminders of the ongoing tensions. A typical DMZ tour most often includes the Third Infiltration Tunnel, an underground passage dug by North Korea for a potential invasion; the Dora Observatory, where you can peer into North Korea, and the Bridge of No Return, where prisoners of war were exchanged after the Korean War. Our tour also included a suspension bridge in the forest nearby.
As it is quite a long program you will also have a lunch stop, there is only one lunch spot so all the buses end up in the same location where you can get a buffet-style Korean lunch for 12 000 Won per person (Aug 2024).
When entering the area for the DMZ under army surveillance 1 to 2 soldiers will board the bus and check everybody’s passport comparing the passport information to the one given by your tour guide. Passports will be checked one more time when exiting the area.
The Pros of Visiting the DMZ
Visiting the DMZ offers a good educational experience, providing deep insights into the history of the Korean War, its influence on today's life for both North and South Koreans, and the complex geopolitics that continue to shape the region. It’s an opportunity to stand at one of the most militarized strips of land in the world and witness firsthand the stark contrast between North and South Korea. For history enthusiasts and those interested in international relations, the DMZ is a powerful reminder of the consequences of war and the fragile nature of peace.
You get to observe North Korea from a distance, look at the land with binoculars, and witness firsthand the contrast between busy and modern South Korea and the almost untouched North Korean countryside. Going down the Third Infiltration Tunnel is very impressive and shows the means that were put in place by North Korea to invade the South in the past.
You also have the opportunity to buy reel North Korean bills both old and new which is a very unique souvenir to bring back home. Let’s be real it will cost you way more than the facial value of the bill with the current exchange rate but it’s still a cool thing to bring back home.
Korean drama lovers might find visiting the DMZ particularly appealing because it’s featured in popular shows like "Crash Landing on You" and "Descendants of the Sun." These dramas depict the tense and emotional relationship between North and South Korea, often set against the backdrop of the DMZ. By visiting, fans can connect with the real-life settings that inspired these stories, deepening their appreciation for the dramas. It’s a great opportunity for capturing memorable photos in locations reminiscent of iconic scenes.
We did things the other way around, we heard about "Cash Landing on You" by our tour guide at the DMZ and then started watching it.
The Cons of Visiting the DMZ
While the DMZ tour is undoubtedly unique, it has several drawbacks that might make it less appealing for some travelers.
There is no guarantee that you will be able to get in until you get there. Our guide told us that they needed to queue from the time the bus got there (around 7 AM) to 9 AM to be first in line to get spots for their group as there is a limited number of spots per day to get in the military zone. This means that you need to get there extra early, we left Seoul at 6:30 AM and once you get to the ticket office you’ll see all the tour guides running to put their paperwork in line to set the queue for the 9 AM opening of the ticket booth. I’ve never seen that before it was a bit surreal.
The tour is heavily regulated, with strict rules on where you can go, what you can photograph, and how you must behave. It is also the same for everyone in the same order more or less and loads of buses get to each spot at the same time. It felt to us very standardized and rushed at times so it was not really our vibe. We realized that the DMZ tour has become somewhat commercialized, with souvenir shops and well-trodden paths that might detract from the gravity of the site, leaving us to wonder if it lives up to the hype. On one of the stops, there was even a sort of amusement park which, considering the history of the place, seemed to us a bit unnecessary.
The DMZ tour does not lead you to the JSA anymore. The Joint Security Area (JSA) is a section of the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) where North and South Korean forces stand face-to-face. It's located in the village of Panmunjom and is the only place within the DMZ where soldiers from both sides can come into direct contact. You probably have in mind this world-famous picture of Donald Trump and Kim Jong Un shaking hands at the border. This was done at the JSA.
Why are DMZ Tours Not Including the JSA Anymore?
Recently, DMZ tours have stopped including visits to the Joint Security Area (JSA) due to the COVID-19 pandemic, rising tensions between North and South Korea, and heightened security concerns. It was also mentioned during our tour that the JSA tours were suspended after U.S. Pvt. 2nd Class Travis King ran across the inter-Korean border into North Korea at the JSA during a group tour in mid-July 2023.
Who Should Consider Visiting the DMZ?
The DMZ is interesting to visit for history buffs, political science enthusiasts, and anyone deeply interested in the Korean Peninsula’s past and present. The tour provides a rare chance to engage with a significant historical site that continues to influence global affairs. Cultural travelers who seek a deeper understanding of South Korea’s modern identity might also find the experience enriching. However, for those with limited time in South Korea or a preference for lighter, more relaxing activities, the DMZ may not be the ideal choice, and they might prefer to spend their time exploring other aspects of the country’s rich culture.
Conclusion: Is the DMZ Worth Visiting?
In conclusion, whether or not the DMZ is worth visiting depends largely on your interests and what you hope to gain from your trip to South Korea. The DMZ offers a unique educational experience, allowing visitors to engage with a key part of Korean history.
However, the highly controlled and commercialized nature of the tour may not be for everyone. For those looking for a more relaxed or diverse experience in Korea, there are plenty of other attractions in and close to Seoul that may be more to your liking. Ultimately, the decision comes down to your personal travel goals and interests.
On a personal note, I would not do it again as I think the JSA really would have been for me the most interesting and important point of the tour, and as mentioned above it is not included anymore. I would recommend anyone interested to try to find a tour with a North Korean citizen who escaped so you can ask them questions and really have a first-hand take on history.
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